Elizabeth David 3 out of 5
When the whole of Britain faced the nazi threat during the second world war and we were apparently all pulling together for the war effort, “upper class” Elizabeth David decided to go on holiday setting off on a merry jaunt around the Med in her married lover’s yacht. It didn’t quite go to plan and after spending time in Italy (weren’t they the enemy?) she continued to run way from the war, living the high life with well known bohemians in Greece, then moving on to Egypt where she dumped her beau and took a marriage of convenience with an English lieutenant eventually ending up in India. When the nasty, dirty business of bombing and manual work back in England was over she decided to return. And so between 1946 and 1950, at a time when rationing was actually worse than it was during the war, when the masses of Britain were struggling with powdered eggs she decided that this was a perfect time to tell us that we were doing it all wrong and should actually be cooking with olive oil and courgettes. So followed her book “Mediterranean food” which espoused the use of fresh foods that simply weren’t available to the majority of British citizens.
Her “distinguished” background and good connections ensured that since then the perceived wisdom amongst the middle classes is that she introduced such food items to Britain…..I guess firmly established Italian delicatessens such as Valvona and Crolla of Edinburgh who had been selling Mediterranean delicacies for nearly thirty years previously were well off the radar of those who write the unofficial social history of Britain.
However, whatever you think about the above there is no doubt that her books brought some southern European sunshine to a grey Britain and “Mediterranean Food” is still named by many famous chefs as either a huge influence or even a “bible” and a quick internet search will find thousands of gushing tributes to her books. With black and white illustrations throughout, the book is as much about culinary history of the regions she visited as it is about the recipes themselves, in fact some say that it is more of an interesting read than a book you prop up in the kitchen and cook directly from.The writing style in this book is very much of her time and many foreign words are left un-translated, Americans may have difficulty with the French words for zucchini and eggplant for example. Some may find that this adds to the enjoyment or reading this important book as you step back in time and into the life and travels of the author.
Buy now from: Amazon UK
February 11, 2007 at 8:25 pm
I once met a couple (of Romanians) who knew how awful British food is because they had read Elizabeth David’s book! I hadn’t read it myself so couldn’t comment but it’s interesting and sad that this notion was disseminated by someone who was herself British. Had she perhaps not heard of tea, or of the spice routes? We don’t live in culinary isolation, never did. One interesting discovery I made recently is that Fuddiki (its Lebanese) is nearly identical to the filling in a Cornish Pasty and, did you know, the Phoenicians (ancient Lebanese) were frequent customers of Cornish Tin around the first century, so the ongoing argument between Devon and Cornwall over who invented the pasty could be lost by both parties!
February 28, 2007 at 2:16 pm
It’s probable that Elizabeth David had not read classic British cookbooks such as Mrs Beeton, Constance Spry, Elinor Fettiplace….as she would have found innumerable international influences and a multitude of uses for exotic spices such as nutmeg and saffron…. resulting from centuries of trade and cultural exchange from the Empire and beyond.
The Naturalist Gilbert White used to have Melon parties (definitely a fruit from warmer climates and indeed related to the courgette) back in the mid 1700’s as melons were all the rage back then.
Maybe her judgements on English food were based entirely on her own (limited?) experience of what her family and friends ate?
Harold.
December 9, 2007 at 5:56 am
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